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Propagation for Overwintering Insurance

26 Oct

So this year I decided to do what I said I wouldn’t do a few years ago… Bring a bunch if tender stuff in to try and overwinter it again. I don’t know what it is, but people always seem to want what is difficult to keep, rather than the perfectly serviceable, even beautiful stuff that is hardy itself. Soooo, here I go trying to keep various Cupheas, more tropical type Salvias and Fuchsias, and some other random stuff inside this year. It’s kind of silly in some ways… Most of this stuff is fairly easy to replace in 4″ pots for around 3-4 dollars each, but instead I’m gonna play the watering roulette to see if I can pull things through till spring.

One up side to all this is that if I can keep things alive till February or even March, I can propagate the hell out of the ones I really like, to spread even more cheer for next summer’s garden. This is kind of why I want to do this, to have a whole bed of Cuphea ignea a d boxes full of Fuchsia triphylla ‘Mary’. For the rest, I’m just being curious, lol.

But of course, while I was bringing things in, I couldn’t help but start some things as “insurance” of some of the stuff I am leaving outside I don’t want to loose either- a couple of supposedly hardy salvias, some of the more water sensitive Cupheas, a pelargonium or two, that kind of thing. This is like saying, ok… I have the big one that should survive, but if I grow on a couple of cuttings, maybe I can have better odds of getting at least one to survive. And if they all do, cool… More to plant out in spring!

Where exactly I gonna put all these pots until that happens is the big question… The big windows in the living room are already two deep with pots, lol, and I didn’t even get everything in yet *sigh*.

Ok, so this post is mostly about my propagation systems. So… Years ago I got this rather nice propagation box from the good folks online at the Garderner’s Supply Company. I think back the. It was strictly mail order, we’re talking 20 some odd years ago, lol, long before Internet commerce was a thing. The unit is a little best up now, the styrofoam base is a little broken down around the edges, but it still works great, and seems the folks at Gardener’s Supply haven’t done anything much to change it. I kind of wish the base was a little more durable, but it is nice it’s so light, so that when you pick it up when it’s full, it still is pretty light. So this basically is a basin well, with a little stand thing that fits in it, and a grid like thing that sits on top of that, which when filled with an appropriate soil mix grows out the cuttings or seed. The ingenious thing with these is the sheet that wicks water up from the well to underneath the growing cells, and keeps things reasonably hydrated if you just remember to fill the well back up every few days. If the well dries, the wicking sheet dries, and then all bets are off. I long ago lost the cover to mine, but it was shorter than I liked anyway. I now simply place the whole thing in a steroids type bin, inverted so its sitting on the lid. Works great, and gives me more room for the cuttings to grow, and not incidentally, better control over air flow, and an additional tray for water, for more humidity control as well.

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Here you can see the unit inside it’s bin. I got these bins from Costco, a set of three was around 10-15 bucks I think. Well worth the cost for this, and we use ’em for all kind of other things too. They work great. To begin with, when I first put the cuttings in, I keep it basically closed, and will even leave a little water in the lid to up the humidity in the enclosed bin, to aid the initial surge to produce roots. Here, I have placed it in a sunny south facing window. On a sunny day, these heat up. In Seattle, there isn’t too much problem with this, but in warmer climates you might want to keep watch they don’t get cooked in there, lol, but it’s generally cool enough here that’s not a problem I have had.

Now, that little unit quickly filled up, and I had more I wanted to make cuttings of. Last year I made my own self watering units from plastic bottles. This worked ok for some things, not so great with others. They are easy to make out of something that generally gets used once or maybe a couple of times, then thrown out… And we did some work on the house this summer, where some guys ended up using a bunch of bottled water and I saved the bottles from them, so I had a bunch of them waiting to be used… So, I decided to try making a tray like the one above, but from these bottles and an old wash basin we had. I did them the same as the others I did before-

1) poke a hole in the lid with a sharp pin, then pry it open with a small Phillips head screw driver. I poke from the top down first, then a second time from the inside out, so the excess plastic is poked to the outside, and the inside of the lid is more or less smooth.

2) cut a length of cotton twine or yarn about 8 inches or so, double it over and tie a knot about and inch from the cut ends. Poke the loop through the hole from the inside out, leaving the two ends on the inside. This will act as the wick for the pot. Put the lid back on the pot, make sure you don’t catch the string in the threads.

3) with a sharp knife, I use a serrated bread knife, cut the bottom off the bottle. Last year I wanted free standing ones, so I cut half way down, so the base of the bottle could act as a well for water. This year I wanted a deeper pot, and am using the wash basin for a reservoir, so I cut them about an in h from the bottom, maybe a little less. These bases I discarded, and now have taller “pots” to work with.

Here is the finished project, full now, and most of them starting to grow after a week or two. I took the lid off for this pic of course-

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And lifting one of the bottles up so you can see how they work-

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With an in h or two of water in the wash basin, the pots can wick what they need up into the pot. So far so good… But what I am going to do when these get big enough to come out of these pots I’m not sure. I’m kind of hoping they can stay in this basin all winter, but they may get wayyyy too crowded. We will have to see.

Some things definitely do better than other propagated this way. If its a plant that likes it dry, this probably won’t work well. If however, it likes constant moisture, this should be a great way to propagate it. Assuming of course you watch the water level and never let them dry out.

And about that… Gradually over time the plants will tend to slowly dry out the soil in the pot, so you may need to water the pots every once in a while. Usually though, you just pour the water into the basin and let the wick draw what the plant needs up into the soil. Of course, fertilizer can be added to the water if your plants need a boost, but remember that in a multi pot system like this, everything will get it, lol.

So, what all do I have in the propagation pipeline at the moment?

Salvia patens ‘Cobalt’
Abutilon megapotamicum
Pelargonium ‘Tango Velvet Red’
Coleus ‘Kiwi Fern’
Senecio confusa
Lantana camara ‘Lamdmark Peach Sunrise’
Osteospermum cultivars
Salvia ‘Wendy’s Wish’
Fuchsia ‘Billy Green’
Fuchsia ‘Mary’
Stronilanthes dyerianus
Cuphea ignea
Cuphea llavea ‘Flamenco Samba’
Cuphea llavea ‘Tiny Mice’
Cuphea cyanea ‘Caribbean Sunset’
Bacopa monieri
Plectranthus ‘Velvet Elvis’

There may be a few more in there soon- another salvia I forgot to take a cutting of, some other fuchsias we had in baskets, that kind of thing. I just hope I get half this stuff through till next summer!

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What’s Blooming September 30th, 2013

30 Sep

Abutilon megapotamicum
Achillea millefolium
Agastache ‘Apricot Sprite’
Agastache ‘Grape Nectar’
Agastache ‘Orange Nectar’
Aster subspicatus
Bacopa monieri
Ballotta nigra
Begonia boliviensis
Campanula persicifolia
Celosia ‘New Look’
Chaenorhinum origanifolium ‘Blue Dream’
Chlorophytum camosum
Choisya ternata
Chrysanthemum partheniacum
Claytonia sibirica
Convulvulus arvensis
Cuphea cyanea ‘Carribean Sunset’
Cuphea ignea
Cuphea llavea ‘Flamenco Samba’
Cuphea llavea ‘Tiny Mice’
Cyclamen hederifolium
Dahlia coccinea (Bishop’s type)
Dahlia (white cactus flowered)
Dicentra Formosa
Echinacea purpurea
Epilobium ciliatum
Fuchsia campos-portoi
Fuchsia hatschbachii
Fuchsia magellanica ‘aurea’
Fuchsia magellanica ‘molinae’
Fuchsia magellanica (Patrick’s)
Fuchsia magellanica (Gram’s)
Fuchsia magellanica (plant swap)
Fuchsia triphylla ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt’
Fuchsia triphylla ‘Mary’
Fuchsia ‘Auntie Jinks’
Fuchsia ‘Billy Green’
Fuchsia ‘Display’
Fuchsia ‘Juellia’
Fuchsia ‘Marinka’
Fuchsia ‘Princessita’
Fuchsia ‘Whiteknight’s Amethyst’
Gazania ‘Daybreak Garden Sun’
Impatiens capensis
Impatiens noli-tangere
Ipomoea multfida
Medicago sativa
Mina lobata
Nemesia ‘Aromatica White Improved’
Nemesia hybrids
Kalanchoe blossfieldiana
Lapsana communis
Lavendula angustifolia
Lobelia erinus
Lobularia maritime
Lonicera japonica ‘Pink Lemonade’
Lonicera sempervirens ‘Major Wheeler’
Mentha himalayensis
Mentha ‘Chocolate’
Nicotiana mutabilis
Oenothera missouriensis
Pentas lanceolata
Plantago major
Salvia coccinea ‘Forest Fire’
Salvia coccinea ‘Snow Nymph’
Salvia darcyi ‘Pscarl’
Salvia elegans ‘Tangerine’
Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’
Salvia leucantha x ‘Phyllis Fancy’
Salvia microphylla ‘Cerro Potosi’
Salvia patens ‘Cobalt’
Salvia ‘Wendy’s Wish’
Sedum spectabilis ‘Autumn Joy’
Sedum spectabilis (Heronwood variegated)
Solenostemon scuttelariodes ‘Kiwi Fern’
Solidago Canadensis
Strobilanthes dyeriana
Tagetes signata ‘Starfire’
Tagetes ‘Disco Orange’
Tagetes ‘Disco Yellow’

What’s Blooming July 24th, 2013

31 Jul

Achillea millefolium

Agapanthus hybrid

Agastache foeniculum ‘Golden Jubilee’

Agastache x ‘Apricot Sprite’

Agastache x ‘Grape Nectar’

Agastache x ‘Orange Nectar’

Allium schoenoprassum

Anaphalis margaritaceae

Bacopa monieri

Ballotta nigra

Barbarea vulgaris

Begonia boliviensis ‘Bonfire’

Begonia x ‘Catrin’

Begonia x ‘Kleo’

Brassica oleracea

Buddleia davidii ‘Dark Knight’

Calliandra eryophylla

Campanula carpatica

Campanula persicifolia

Campanula portenshclageana

Cardamine hirsuta

Celosia x ‘New Look’

Celosia (cockscomb)

Cerastium tomentosum

Chaenorrhinum origanifolium ‘Blue Dream’

Chamerion angustifolium

Chrysanthemum partheniacum

Chrysanthemum x superbum

Claytonia sibirica

Clivia miniata

Coreopsis auriculata ‘nana’

Corydalis lutea

Crocosmia masonorum

Crocosmia x ‘Lucifer’

Cuphea cyanea ‘Carribean Sunset’

Cuphea ignea

Cuphea ignea (tall form)

Cuphea llavea ‘Flamenco Samba’

Cuphea llavea ‘Tiny Mice’

Cyclamen hederifolium

Dahlia (white cactus)

Dahlia (red leaved red flowers)

Dicentra formosa

Echinacea purpurea

Ellisiphyllum pinnatum

Epilobium ciliatum

Fuchsia campos-portoi

Fuchsia magellanica ‘aurea’

Fuchsia magellanica ‘molinae’

Fuchsia magellanica (Gram’s)

Fuchsia magellanica (Patrick’s)

Fuchsia magellanica (red leaved)

Fuchsia magellanica (plant swap)

Fuchsia tryphylla ‘Gartenmeister Bonsteadt’

Fuchsia triphylla ‘Mary’

Fuchsia x ‘Auntie Jinks’

Fuchsia x ‘Billy Green’

Fuchsia x ‘Juella’

Fuchsia x ‘Lachlade Magician’

Fuchsia x ‘Marinka’

Fuchsia x ‘Princessita’

Fuchsia x ‘Whiteknight’s Amethyst’

Gazania ‘Daybreak Garden Sun’

Geum macrophyllum

Gladiolus hybrid

Glyceria grandis

Huechera sanguinea

Impatiens hawker

Impatiens noli-tangere

Ipomoea luteola

Ipomoea multifida

Juncus ensifolia

Justicia brandegeana

Kalanchoe blossfieldiana

Lantana camara ‘Anne Marie’

Lantana camara ‘Landmark Peach Sunrise’

Lapsana communis

Lathyrus sylvestris

Lavendula angustifolia

Lespedeza thunbergii

Liatris spicata

Lillium martagon

Lobelia erinus

Lobularia maritimus

Lonicera sempervirens ‘Major Wheeler’

Lonicera ‘Pink Lemonade’

Lonicera ‘sulphurea’

Lychnis coronaria

Malva alcea

Medicago sativa

Mellissa citriodora

Mentha himalayensis

Mimulus cardinalis

Mimulus guttatus

Mina lobata

Mirabilis jalapa ‘Limelight’

Mitraria coccinea

Monarda didyma ‘Gardenview Scarlet’

Myosotis laxa

Nemesia ‘Aromatica White Improved’

Nemesia hybrids

Nicotiana alata grandiflora

Nicotiana mutabilis

Nicotiana x ‘Knightiana’

Ocimum basilicum

Oenothera missouriensis

Origanum vulgare

Osteospermum hybrid (white and purple)

Oxalis nelsoniana

Oxalis oregano

Oxalis triangularis

Pentas lanceolata

Phaelenopsis hybrids

Phaseolus coccinea

Plantago major

Polygonum pensylvanicum

Rosa chinensis mutabilis

Rosa x ‘Graham Thomas’

Rubus armeniacus

Rumex acetosella

Saintpaulia hybrids

Salvia coccinea ‘Forest Fire’

Salvia coccinea ‘Snow Nymph’

Salvia elegans ‘Tangerine’

Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’

Salvia luecantha ‘Phyllis Fancy’

Salvia microphylla ‘Cerro Potosi’

Salvia microphylla ‘Hotlips’

Salvia patens ‘Cobalt’

Salvia ‘Wendy’s Wish’

Scabiosa alpina ‘Ritz Blue’

Schizanthus pinnatus

Schlumbergera hybrid

Solidago canadensis

Solidago ‘Golden Baby’

Stachys cooleyae

Symphoricarpos alba

Symphyotrichum subspicatum

Sysimbrium altissimum

Tagetes signata ‘Sparkles’

Tagetes ‘Disco Orange’

Tagetes ‘Disco Yellow’

Taraxacum officinale

Trapaeolum majus ‘Alaska’

Trifolium alba

Urtica dioica

Verbena x ‘Estrella Voodoo’

Viola x wittrockiana

Trapaeolum majus ‘Alaska’

10 Jul

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I grow these periodically, both because I like how easy they are to plant, and because I like the flowers. What’s not to like? White speckled leaves, bright flowers, both of which can add a peppery flavor to salads, easy to plant from large seeds even kids can handle easily, and it attracts the odd Cabbage White Butterfly to lay her eggs on, and even the occassional hummingbird checking out the flowers.

I really need to start collecting seeds of my favorite forms though. Most come up in shades of yellow and orange flowers. One this year is a nice salmon pink orange, and a few have nice contrasting darker nectar guides, which I always find appealing on these.

The problem is simply remembering to collect them, and how to store the big, chick pea sized seeds. Maybe a small mason jar? They should come true to leaf type if not flower color, and I don’t grow any other annual nasturtiums, so there isn’t anything to hybridize with.

Unless of course, the fall blooming Nasturtium tuberosum I bought decides to do well and flower. It is a tuberous species, edible tubers actually, though Beth and I weren’t particularly impressed with the taste of them. It’s leaves are also edible, and rather peppery. Not my favorite, but edible. We will see if they decide to flower, or if the tubers prove hardy here in the PNW. Maybe in a pot, under cover in the garage over winter? We will see.

But the Alaska nasturtiums are easy annuals I really should grow more. I e got them in the long box with the white Salvia coccinea ‘Snow Nymph’, some deep purple annual allysum, and the old cottage flower Lychnis coronaria. The orange and yellow flowers are little odd with the magenta catchfly, but it’s still a nice combination of bright cheerful flowers.

Summer Pots

10 Jul

We spent far more on “summer color” for the deck this year than we probably should have, especially with the construction going on around here this summer, but really, I’ve been enjoying it. In particular, we got quite a few good hummingbird plants, even though having the construction stuff on the deck in the middle of it all kind of drove a few hummers off that we had in the spring. Poor Mike, apparently as he was working outside, he’d get dive bombed and buzzed by the occasional
hummer looking for food, lol.

All in all though, I like how the pots turned out this year. I got a bunch of blue annual lobelia, Lobelia erinus. I love how having them scattered around kind of ties everything together. I did get some mixed ones, and some that were white with blue throats and edges. The pink and purple shades I could mostly do without… But the white and blue ones are kind of nice in a red places.

Another annual we got we hadn’t grown for a while is the Schizanthus pinnatus, in mixed colors. This was one of my Mom’s favorites, and I must say I’ve really been enjoying them, particularly in the hanging baskets with the blue lobelia.

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Isn’t that lovely? The lighter pink ones with the blue are almost as nice. I’ll have to look for them again next spring. This was one six pack, but I think a little more to spread around would have been nice.

Salvia coccinea has been one I look for each spring, since its reliably good at attracting hummers. This year I tried growing some from seed, with mixed results. I had scattered seed of the variety ‘Forest Fire’ directly into the pot with the Befonia boliviensis ‘Bonfire’ and a lemon verbena last summer, and several of those sprouted.

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That is one of the seedlings I carefully transplanted to use as an annual in a mixed pot. The big one in the begonia pot is a little off at the moment, lol, but give it a break. It’s been blooming steadily since almost New Years in that pot. Oddly, it’s growing almost as much sideways as up. I kind of like the trailing habit, actually, and the hummers on the back deck have certainly been enjoying it!

Early in spring I found, in bloom, six packs of ‘Snow Nymph’, a white variety that tends to stay rather compact. I thought why not? Lets try it!

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I honestly have to say I’m a little disappointed. They do stay dwarf, maybe because of our cool spring and flip flop weather this summer, they are almost too dwarf. Several are barely flowering at all, and I’ve only seen sporadic use by the hummers, less than most of the other salvias I have, and less than makes them worth growing. I do like the white color though, so maybe I can find some seedlings that are taller at some point or something, I dunno.

Speaking of taller coccineas, I did get seed from a member on the hummingbird forum for a taller variety she grows.

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As you can see, these are still small plants. I don’t think they are gonna get that big this summer, lol. Maybe like others have said on the forum, I should focus on other hardier salvias, and other plants I know do well to attract hummers. Thing is, I like Salvia coccinea in general, and it is easy to grow. With lots of other hummer plants in the garden, it’s not a top tier favorite… But then again, it IS used, and is an easy to grow plant for the money. Now if I can just get good at growing out seedlings, I could save my own, lol.

Speaking of saving seeds, I really should try and save seeds from the ‘Alaska’ nasturtiums. This heirloom variety has nice speckled white foliage. Most of mine came in yellow orange, though I do have one interesting coral pink one. I keep getting seeds of these to plant, but really I should save the seeds of the ones that grow the best that I like the colors of. Honestly, I wouldn’t mind just saving the bright orange ones with the darker nectar guides!

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Along with Salvia coccinea, I got a couple of tender to half hardy salvias. The prettiest of the bunch is the only one I have NOT seen a hummer use, lol. Salvia patens ‘Cobalt’ is an incredible clear blue-

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Growing in the same pot with the taller of the Cuphea ignea varieties, and a spectacular Senecio confuses with fluorescent orange daisies, this whole pot may come inside for the winter. I love all three. Even if it doesn’t attract hummers, the funky shaped, bright blue flowers are stunning. The Cuphea gets more attention from the hummers of course.

I have several Cupheas this year- two forms of Cuphea ignea, two forms of Cuphea llavea (‘Tiny Mice’ and ‘Flamenco Samba’), plus Cuphea (Cyanea?) ‘Carribean Sunset’. All of them have, at one point or another attracted some hummer usage. The two forms of C. ignea seem to be the most attractive to the hummers. Caribean Sunset is in with a flowering maple, vaguely labeled as “Abutilon hybrid” though the plant and flowers look like straight Abutilon megapotamicum. That pot may also be brought in to overwinter, since for one the parlor maple should bloom through the winter inside, and I find the flowers bizarrely beautiful.

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You can also see in the corner of this pot a bright magenta plume of Celosia ‘New Look’. It’s been forever since I’ve grown these amaranths, but I’ve really been enjoying them. This one had blushed purple foliage when I planted it, though that has faded somewhat in this pot.

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This pot, with Lantana camara ‘Lamdmark Peach Sunrise’, a purple under leafed Plectranthus ‘Velvet Elvis’, and a few others not blooming has been better at holding that color. This is another pot I want to bring in, as both the lantana and the Plectranthus should overwinter.

One plant that has overwintered the last few is this beautiful dark leaved Dahlia-

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I either list the tag or never had the name for it, I just remember that the first year it stayed nice and dwarf, never getting over two feet. This year, it’s third summer, I transplanted it into. Much larger pot, and it is now pushing four feet, and with lots more flowers. Best yet, I’ve seen hummers on it a couple of times! Granted, I’m pretty sure they were juveniles, who will visit almost anything, but they must like it well enough to come back. And visit multiple flowers, not just one. It’s a keeper!

Another pot overwintered was this standard fuchsia-

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It’s back on the same corner of the deck as last year. Overwintering was a pain though. First it went in the basement, no light, where it dropped all its leaves and dried out probably a little more than it wants to. The Oxalis in the base too, completely went dormant. I think it was in January I took pity on it and brought it up into the living room where it got good light, an occasional watering, and perked right up. It was flowering by the time I took it back outside, but the cool spring stopped bud formation for another month or two. It didn’t really start going till we had that week long hotspell with days in the upper 80s and lower 90s. Now it looks spectacular, though I haven’t seen much hummer use this year, unlike last year when it was a favorite. Oh, and I now have cuttings of this one scattered through out the garden, lol, in hanging baskets (where it is still not blooming) and in the ground. If it proves hardy, I may grow more of it. If not, I’m not sure what will happen. This standard really needs to be reported next spring. The soil has to be tired, and I am sure it’s now way over pot bound. It’s beautiful this year though!

Something we tried this year that has sort of worked was to put lettuce starts in with some of the pots. I say this has sort of worked, because in reality, we tend to forget they are there. One of them is bolting now, lol. They have grown well though, and we have eaten a salad or two from them, but in general we tend to forget they are there when we are hungry. Other herbs like the mints, sorrel and parsley we do better with.

I do need to get some fertilizer for these guys in general, and break out the shears to cut back the spring an early summer spikes turning to seed heads. Hopefully that, and a return of the sun, will get things blooming better again.

Lavendula angustifolia

26 Jun


English lavender is one of my sister’s favorite plants. Now we grow mostly dwarf varieties suitable for culinary use (try using lavender sugar on top of your favorite snicker doodle type sugar cookie recipe!), but the taller ones are always admired when we see them too.

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Unfortunately I’ve lost the names of the ones we planted, or at least the names we had, since two of them were unidentified seedlings. I suppose it doesn’t matter too much, but when people ask which ones we grow, I can’t tell you. I know we originally had ‘Twice Purple’, and ‘Buena Vista’ but I couldn’t tell you which ones were which.

We got ours out at the Lavender Festival in Sequim, a few years back. I don’t even remember which farms we bought them from, but several had seedlings and cuttings for sale. At least one of the pink ones we have was one of these unnamed seedlings, bought be ause we liked the sweet fragrance of the flowers and foliage.

And really, if you are getting lavender to use in teas and pastries, the best advice is to ignore what other people tell you works, and simply smell the foliage a f flowers. If its yummy sweet, try it! If it smells a little sharp to you, move along to the next variety, cause that sharpness will show up when you taste it too.

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Ok, I mentioned lavender sugar above… Here is how I make it; on a clear dry morning, pick a handful of flowers, preferably stems that are only just barely starting to open. Knock off any bugs and dirt. Carefully strip off the flowers into a bowl or straight into a mason jar. Cover completely with regular sugar. I would say I usually use a out a quarter to a half cup of lavender to one to two cups of sugar, but really, experiment till you find the balance you like.

Try using this mildly infused sugar on top of sugar cookies or Mexican wedding ball cookies, to sweeten lemonade, things like that. It’s especially refreshing on a hot day, and for cookies makes an interesting more adult alternative to the usual cookie fare at Christmas.

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Lavender is fairly easy to grow as long as you give it enough sun, and water the first few years to get it established. Older plants get woody and need to be carefully pruned in late winter as buds break, to renew the stems and keep them from getting overly leggy. Propagation is fairly easy a d straightforward either from cuttings or seed. Seedlings can be highly variable and fun to grow for new plants, so long S you don’t want boring uniformity in your lavender hedge.

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This is a seedling I grew out that is flowering well this year, with a nice dwarf habit and wonderfully sweet fragrance. This one is a keeper. One of its sisters is much stronger smelling, but with a medicinal twang that overpowers the sweet was of the flowers. The bees seem to like it better though, go figure.

Lavendula viridis

26 Jun

I’m still not 100% positive this is the straight species, the original plant died, and this is a seedling from it, the only one of about a dozen that survived. Still, I love this plant. It’s fragrant leaves can be used like rosemary, but have a complex flavor mixing pine, lemon and lavender notes. Often the species is called “lemon lavender” because of the citrusy hints, but I think the flavor is much more complex than that. If you do decide to use it, be careful! Little dab will do you with this one. Too much overwhelmed just about everything it is cooked with, and gives a medicinal aftertaste that is not particularly pleasant.

The flowers are like the Lavendula stoechas type cone like bracts, but with chartreuse green to cream flowers poking out. Bumbles like them as well as they do all the lavenders. Skippers and butterflies, when flying while it is in bloom, also like these. Haven’t seen a hummer on them, but would not be overly surprised.

Needs really good drainage, which here seems to mean a pot, lean soils seem to be fine though. Hit heavily by hard freezes, but usually pulls through ok. Not the easiest lavender I’ve grown, but not the hardest by any means either. Worth a try if you like different herbs for cooking or potpourri, etc.

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